Vintage Jewelry Maker Marks
I compiled a long list of some of my favorite companies that have makers marks on their jewelry so you can identify who made the jewelry and the approximate age of the piece. If there are any marks I missed and you would like to tell me about them or send a photo do so here. For a great book on everyone known to all collectors click on the book to the left. Right now there are only 7 of these books left.
Signed Vintage Costume Jewelry Marks Photos
Here are the marks in alphabetical order:
1. ART – This companies marks have always been just the 3 letters and date from 1950 – 1980. From our experience this was a jewelry company that had some of the lower quality jewelry items. Their jewelry is still very collectable though!!
2. Boucher – This is one of their marks that was used from 1955 onward. Boucher used Sterling Silver and had Sterling marks from about 1942 until at least 1947 . Boucher worked for Mazer in the early 1930′s. He then did a series of flower brooches that had his name, and also added the name of the flower. Boucher Patent Numbers, Marks, and Dates are approximate, as design numbers could have been changed.
Here are the patent or inventory marks and the dates that correspond to these marks.
1945: 2300 – 2350
1946: 2351 – 2450
1947: 2451 – 2550
1948: 2551 – 2750
1949: 2751 – 3000
1950: 3001 – 4500
Keep in mind that after 1955, marks then had the copyright © symbol.
3. Ciner – New York, New York (1892 to present) All have “Ciner” marks. Initially, Ciner were known for their fine jewelry pieces before moving into costume jewelry in the 1930s. The company have built up a great reputation for excellent quality jewelry and, they had many top names as clientele such as actress Elizabeth Taylor and Queen Sophia of Spain. The pieces produced still retain many characteristics of fine jewelry including the use of good-quality beads and stones and substantial metal settings. Ciner became massively popular in the late 1920s/early 1930s with the arrival of American department stores. Continue to have signed marks.
4. Coro - Photo of one of their marks below. Coro Jewelry Company , Cohn & Rosenberger, was established in New York by Emanuel Cohn & Carl Rosenberger in 1901/1902 & incorporated in 1913. A jewelry factory was built in Providence, RI in 1911. One of my grandparents lived in East Providence and one in Pawtucket. With offices and manufacturing buildings in New York & Providence as well as in Chicago, Los Angeles, San Francisco, Miami, Toronto, England and Mexico. Great Britain mechanical patents have been found in the name of Corocraft from 1961 until 1969, which documents actual production in England. These have their own unique marks also and in my opinion are a better quality jewelry.
5. DeLillo – This jewelry was founded by William deLillo and Robert Clark (formerly a designer for Miriam Haskell). DeLillo, who originally came from Belgium, moved to the U.S. in the early 1950′s and worked for Cartier and Harry Winston. Clark left Haskell in 1967 to begin his venture with DeLillo. Considered to be specialty art jewelry, DeLillo jewelry pieces were created more exclusively than most, extending into the 1980′s and special designs created on a private client to client basis. The DeLillo makers marks are shown above.
6. DeMario-Hagler - Robert DeMario 1945 – 1960s . Set up shop in New York City – Robert DeMario worked for many of the New York jewelry companies of his day before starting working and designing jewelry on his own. He did not work for Miriam Haskell even though some of DeMarios’ jewelry does have a Haskell like look. It seems that along with Eugene and Stanley Hagler, information about their work at Haskell is false. DeMario had very high standards and it showed in his pieces. It seems he might have created some pieces for Hagler. It is also known that the two teamed up during the 1960s but this also never happened. His jewelry became recognized for it’s superior craftsmanship and the boldness of his designs. DeMario vintage jewelry is very collectable and commands very high prices. You can see his jewelry marks on the photo inserted.
7. Dominique – Dominique jewelry has only been signed with marks “Dominique” since 1992 for the maker had previously, designed jewelry for the companies Weiss and Eisenberg. The designer is a man who is very humble and prefers to a quiet life while not being publicized.
The stones in Dominique’s jewelry pieces are all hand set and prong set with the finest small to large Swarovski rhinestones and crystals of diamond clear to colors of purple, violet, emerald green, red, sapphire blue, aqua, white milk glass, rose, and pink just to name a few. The jewelry items produced are said to be the best of quality with outstanding stones, manufactured from only the rough stones of flawless clarity, and cut to maximum brilliance. They have marks on the back as pictured.
Hattie Carnegie – Excellent quality jewelry with unique marks. If Hattie Carnegie had been a contestant on Project Runway, she never would have made it past the first round. The famous Seventh Avenue dressmaker, who died in 1956, did not know how to sew. A Time magazine tribute noted that, “her needlework was atrocious, and if she ventured to sew a hem it was likely to sag.” But she had an eye for editing and the gene for style, so it’s no surprise she was able to build up an $8 million empire on the “little Carnegie suit.” Her jewelry was also very popular. I included a photo of the marks on the backside of her jewelry.
Hollycraft – The years 1938 – 1970s – The Hollywood Jewelry Manufacturing Company in New York City, began producing good quality costume jewelry in 1938. They started using the Hollycraft jewelry name in 1948 due to confusion over their line and the Joseph of Hollywood jewelry line. The mark is an impressed “Hollycraft Corp”. Around 1950 they began dating their jewelry as we Collectors most favor their beautiful pastel rainbow colored rhinestone jewelry of the 50′s as well as their line of Christmas tree jewelry. Their jewelry marks are clearly tagged.
Marvella – The Weinrich Bros. Co. was founded by Sol Weinrich about 1911 in Philadelphia, PA specializing in imitation jewelry and simulated pearl jewelry under their name Marvella. Marvella Pearls, Inc. was the name chosen around 1950 and, then around 1965, the name was changed over to Marvella, Inc. Before World War II, the jewelry consisted primarily of gold plated metal topped with enamel, simulated pearls and plain, faceted beads using brilliant faceted crystal beads with rhinestone roundels as spacers. The beads, called aurora borealis, were of the highest quality with spectacular change of colors. The Marvella jewelry produced used many trade marks. Marks: “Marvella” in script on pearl necklaces, pearl earrings, and pearl bracelets, since Jan. 1911.
Miriam Haskell – Trade Marks – On July 30, 1926, a business license was issued to Miriam Haskell for a new shop in: The McAlpin Hotel, New York, New. This event launched a business that would have the reputation for being the finest handmade fashion jewelry ever created. From that moment to the this day, celebrities as well as your regular woman from all over the globe have sought this incredible jewelry to treasure and wear. From collecting jewelry myself I’ve found her jewelry to be the best to collect and for investment purposes.
Shortly after the opening of the Miriam Haskell Gift Shop, Frank Hess, a young designer that worked at Macy’s, joined her business as the jewelry designer. This team proved to be a perfect combination of business skills and artistic abilities. Throughout the years, the story of this woman with a great business sense and this man with his his artistic abilities carried out a clear vision of what this jewelry would be about and who would appreciate it. The company made the nicest costume jewelry from our standpoint. Their marketing was also excellent.
Oringinal By Robert – In 1942, 3 men named Robert Levy, David Jaffe and Irving Landsman created the Fashioncraft Jewelry Company in New York. They used several marks including Fashioncraft, Fashioncraft Robert, Robert and Original by Robert jewelry lines. The company then became Robert Originals Inc in 1960.
In 1975 David Jaffe’s daughter began working for the Robert company. By 1979 and after Jaffe’s retirement, the name was changed to “Ellen designs for Robert Originals” and in 1984 it became “Ellen Designs”.
The fabulous beaded jewelry made by this company have been compared to the same work as Miriam Haskell and Stanley Hagler due to the similar use of filigree and intricate beaded design.
Trifari – The Trifari Company was founded by Gustavo Trifari, an Italian immigrant who arrived at Ellis Island from Napoli in 1904 at the age of 20. In 1910 he founded “Trifari and Trifari” with his uncle. Gustavo’s uncle left the company a few years later, and Gustavo continued the company under the name “Trifari.” It’s no wonder that Italian collectors love to buy Trifari Vintage Jewelry, as Gustavo is one of their own people. We have sold many pieces of Trifari vintage costume jewelry over to Italy. To your left is their jewelry marks.
Warner – Joseph Warner founded the Warner Company in 1953. The Warner jewelry is well known for the highest quality of workmanship and superior, brilliant rhinestones as well as the other materials using a Japanned blacken metal base which is a finishing process on metal using a black coal-tar derivative. Really nice metal tone. The Warner jewelry is not very common and because of its great quality of workmanship, superior stones and materials, the jewelry found commands above average pricing in the collector’s market today. We have one jelly belly cat. Other makers of jewelry, using Japanned metal backings, rhinestones and other materials do not demonstrate the workmanship or their pieces do not contain the brilliant stones and materials which identifies them to the Warner pieces. Marks: “WARNER”. The company stopped its operations in the early 1970s.
Great Book On Signed Jewelry & Makers Marks
This book truly “sparkles” (like the author’s name) and would make an ideal gift for costume jewelry fans. Author Marcia “Sparkles” Brown has created the perfect sequel to her previously published Unsigned Beauties of Costume Jewelry with this handsomely produced volume. Thousands of jewelry items are illustrated in over 800 color photographs and are complemented by captions that include descriptions and values. -Adele Kenny
About the Author
Marcia Brown published her first book, Unsigned Beauties of Costume Jewelry, in 2000. She is the host and co-writer of the award-winning Venture Entertainment books-on-tape series Hidden Treasures: A Collector’s Guide to Antique & Vintage Jewelry. She is a frequent contributor to the Vintage Fashion & Costume Jewelry newsletter. An antique and vintage jewelry historian, lecturer, and collector, Brown also provides private consultations for many dealers, mall owners, and collectors.
Blog Post – Jewelry Makers Trade Marks & Logos